Milos: Only blue



The images from Milos come to my mind through a blue filter. It is not a coincidence. Put on your swimsuit and let’s go for a … swim! By Maria Th. Massoura

Milos is an island in the Cyclades. This means a beautiful place with narrow streets and whitewashed houses. Beautiful villages, lively and tourist ports and its own delicacies. But what makes it special is its beaches. Milos boasts over 75.  Other islands have many and beautiful beaches, too. However, Milos’s beaches are unique, with a fantastic scenery and dreamy waters. The peculiarity of the landscape is due to the fact that many of the beaches were created because of volcanic eruptions.

I spent my four days there by wearing my swimwear and sarongs. I am sure you ‘ll do the same when you go there.

I visited Milos in summer 2012. Before arriving there, I spent some days in Folegandros and I had a stop – by accident – at Kimolos, due to a sea storm. In the afternoon, the “slipper” – a kind of ship- from Kimolos dropped me to Pollonia, the smaller of the two ports of Milos ( the other one is Adamas).  My friends were waiting for me ready to go straight to the beach

 Sunset at  Plathiena.

The sun was setting down. We drove along the winding roads of Milos and, at a point, we took the road which led us to Plathiena.

We stopped right near the waves. On this beach, located between two hills, there is a small canteen, lounge chairs and umbrellas. I don’t know if it was that orange sunset  or the beautiful companionship or the idea that I was on this island.  That moment was one of the most beautiful of that summer.

Sunset in Plathiena

A small Venice on the beach

On the next day, after having a stop for lunch at Papikinos beach at Adamas, we started exploring other beaches of Milos.

Firstly, we passed by “Klima”, a beautiful fishing village. Right by the sea, there are  “sirmata”,  a series of colorful houses with yellow, green, red doors, the old  boat shelters. You could see painted dolphins on the walls, pots with geraniums and small stylish jewelry and souvenir shops. It was a dream.

The colorful village of Klima

As I was walking along the village, I found my dream hut : a small house, two steps away from the beach with a balcony and a lounge chair. What else someone wants in order to be happy?

My dream hut

The whitest summer

The third day began with dives in Sarakiniko, the most famous beach on the island. Around, an almost lunar landscape where massive white rocks, sculptured in beautiful formations, mingle with the crystal blue sea.  I can’t exactly describe it, but,  there, energy is something that you have never experienced before. Among the white rocks, there is a very small inlet. From that point, you can enter the sea.

White on blue background at Sarakiniko

On the rocks or inside the caves, people sunbathe or enjoy the scenery. Every day at Sarakiniko, there are hundreds of travellers. Do not hesitate, just go. It’s a great landscape you will never find a similar one.

sarakiniko detail
White rocks sculptured like a work of art

Like a scene from a Greek movie

So did we feel when we were at Firopotamos at our next stop. It is a beautiful beach surrounded by trees and houses, literally in the sea. The water was so clear and so wonderful that I barely got out of the water, a long time after. Note that there are  canteens for snacks, drinks and fresh fruit there.

The majestic Firopotamos

The boat will take you to…

There is no case to be in Milos and miss a boat trip to Kleftiko,  Geronta or Sikia. You will take the boat from Adamas for a day trip. You will pass through wonderful caves and strange formations by the volcanic white rocks, you’ll dive into awesome crystal clear waters. You will live, even for a while, like … a pirate because ‘Kleftiko’ was used as their shelter in the old times.

Hide inside Kleftiko

Moreover ….

It is easy to discover the beaches of Milos, since access by car or motorbike is relatively easy, especially in the northern and the southern part of the island.  If you feel adventurous, ‘Tsigrado’ beach, with white sand and blue water, even though it has easy access by unpaved road is worth reaching it by going down though the small steep path and having the chance to enjoy the scenery, as locals suggest. Among the organized beaches with beach bars, are Agia Kyriaki, Provatas and Fyriplaka. At Papafragas you will swim in Alogomantra, an oblong “pool”, which resembles … a farm for sheep (‘mantra”). The list is long and each beach has its own, unique character.

ag kyriaki
The Agia Kyriaki beach ( Photo: Thodoris Georgiou)

Walking through Plaka

In the evenings, we had strolls at Plaka, Milos’s “chora” (the biggest inhabited place). Beautiful like all “choras” of the Cycladic Islands with picturesque alleys and nice taverns. We were walking on cobblestone streets and visiting the sights, such as the beautiful “Kastro”, a 13th century Venetian building located on the highest point, a perfect spot to enjoy the sunset. On the way there, you can see Panayia Thalassitra, a beautiful church on a black rock.

Milos is not only beaches

Apart from beaches, there are beautiful villages and picturesque churches worth to be explored by car. However, a must is a visit at the early Christian Catacombs which are located near the village of Tripiti where you can drive. Go down the stairs and you will find yourself in the caves, 70 meters below the surface. Only a part of them is open to the public. On the walls, there are 126 graves carved out in the shape of an arch. It is a shocking sight!

Milos…an island in blue


  • At Milos, you will enjoy superb meat e.g. lamb and goat and many local specialties like eggplants with pork. Of course, I’ve enjoyed fresh fish, seafood and delicious spaghetti with lobster, too.
Fesh langoustine pasta
    • Try “pitarakia”, fried cheese pies with stuffing containing hard cheese and onion and “kalisounia”, sweet delicacies with cheese.
    • Adamas is the main port and the biggest touristic spot on the island, where you’ll find many cafes, eateries, bars and shops. One of these is “Flisvos” (+ 30 22870 22275), a traditional tavern serving grilled meat specialties. There is also “Raptis ‘, one of the oldest pastry shops on the island. Try homemade ice cream and watermelon pie.
    • At “Papakinos” beach at Adamas, I had my first meal. Specifically, at “ Oh! Chamos”, the …funniest tavern on the island. (+ 30 22870 21672). Go there for meat dishes, such as “sourtoukiko”- lamb wrapped in paper and cooked for hours- cheeses and sweets. As you are having your meal, have a look at the back of your chair: you ‘ll read a smart saying written on it!
“Sourtoukiko”- lamb at Oh! Chamos!
    • At “Sirocco” restaurant, at Palaiochori (+ 30 22870 31201), food is cooked in a special way, placed in clay pots in the sand : a warm volcanic vein passes from there and the result is delicious lamb or goat with potatoes that melts in your mouth.
This is how food is cooked at Sirocco!
    • For fish and seafood, try the taverns at Pollonia. For example, “Yialos”, a modern restaurant with creative cuisine (+ 30 041208 2287),  “Armyra” (+ 30 22870 41015) or “Armenaki” (+ 30 22870 40949 ).
    • For desserts (chocolate cake, apple pie and the famous watermelon pie) and ice cream, check “Palaios” pastry shop at the entrance of Chora.
Ice cream by Palaios

For the most beautiful sunset, go to the terrace of “Utopia Café” at Plaka with a daiquiri in your hand late in the afternoon to enjoy all the shades of orange mixing with blue.

View of the sunset from Utopia Cafe

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