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Some count down the days to escape the city come summer, and some others, like us, adore urban summers spent right here. One August evening, we experienced Nicosia from a different angle – through the lens of Amyth of Nicosia.
“I just love hotelling,” I said the other day to a friend.
“What’s hotelling?” he asked, clearly puzzled.
“Hotelling is the idea of spending time in a hotel, not necessarily as a guest, but, say, popping in for a drink at the bar, dining at the restaurant, spending time at the spa. In short, immersing yourself in the experience of the place.”
A few days later, we decided to go hotelling in our city, Nicosia, in the height of summer. The idea of slipping into a chic little world – even just for a few hours- especially in August, when the city quietens down, seemed like the perfect ‘Summer in the City’ scenario.
The ideal setting? Amyth of Nicosia, the brand-new boutique hotel by the masters of the craft, Thanos Hotels.
We parked in the narrow streets near the Archbishop’s Palace, one of my favourite corners of the old walled city. The stillness of summer was broken only by the occasional car and groups of people strolling through the old town’s alleys.
Stepping into Amyth felt like entering another world.
The hotel is housed in a beautifully restored old mansion. The renovation pays homage to the building’s character, with modern, minimalist furnishings that subtly reflect Mediterranean and Cypriot design, enhancing the property’s unique identity. The lobby is elegant, featuring a central oval chaise longue, classic heritage tiles, and a signature scent that gently lingers in the air.
We passed through to the bar. One of the finest ways to begin a meal is with an apéritif, ideally something slightly bitter to whet the appetite. We took our seats at the Amyth Bar and ordered Negronis. Arguably among the best in the city, and the bartender revealed the secret: a blend of two vermouths, adding complexity and depth to the drink.
The evening began on the right note and carried on in the outdoor space of Amyth Kouzina. Since spring, the restaurant has moved into its gorgeous inner courtyard, decorated with furnishings in earthy tones, adorned with beautiful materials – think cushions featuring patterns reminiscent of Lefkara embroidery – and olive trees that lend a Mediterranean feel.
Amyth Kouzina’s menu is rooted in Cypriot and Mediterranean flavours. At the helm is award-winning chef Andrew Michael Smith, under the guidance of Thanos Hotels’ Executive Chef, David Goodridge.
The philosophy is all about exceptional ingredients. The hotel and Thanks Group in general work closely with local producers, something that truly makes a difference.
After taking our seats, we browsed the food and wine menus.
The food offering at Amyth Kouzina changes regularly in tune with the seasons. Come August, it’s all about fresh, summery dishes with a refreshing flavour profile. You might start with small bites like grilled corn with spicy mayo, arancini – Italian-style rice balls – with peas, smoked lountza and fresh mint, oven-baked baklava with brie and tomato jam, and chicken thigh poppers.
Next come creative, cooling salads. Among the standout mains: beef fillet with onion marmalade, mashed potato, spinach, baby carrots in a meat jus with aged Commandaria; linguine with sautéed prawns, Sicilian red shrimp, local citrus fruits, charred mandarin, green pepper gel and award-winning Oscetra caviar, Cypriot calamari risotto, and roasted cauliflower steak with fava bean purée and caramelised raisins. Exclusive to Amyth are the Beef Wellington and the signature Lobster Wellington, dishes that I’ll be trying next time.
The wine list, curated by sommelier George Kassianos, gives centre stage to indigenous varieties from Cyprus and Greece, followed by well-known labels from the major wine-producing countries.
We kicked things off with sparkling wine, because bubbles are the perfect way to start a meal (and often to continue it, too!). We sipped on a Crémant from Alsace, paired with exquisite olives and fluffy, house-made sourdough bread. A few drops of outstanding extra virgin olive oil brought the bread to life, while we also spread on two types of delicious butter. It’s in the simple things where you notice the details, and they set the tone for what’s to come.
Then came a white wine from Chablis, suggested by the Amyth Kouzina sommelier. (Tip: ask the staff for food and wine pairings, it’s worth it.) We began the meal with a refreshing Burrata and Tomato Salad. A deceptively simple dish, it allowed the top-quality ingredients to shine. The juicy marinated heirloom tomatoes were full of flavour, the velvety tomato purée was divine, and that lush olive oil tied everything together. Chargrilled peach and smoked tomato purée gave the dish added depth.
At the same time, the Wild Mediterranean Sea Bass Tartare arrived, served with marinated king crab, cucumber, lime and avocado. It was refreshing and elegantly tasty. A floral Malagouzia was paired beautifully, elevating the dish.
Despite it being a Monday evening, the restaurant was buzzing. Large groups, girlfriends catching up, friends, couples of all ages, the crowd at Amyth Kouzina was vibrant. Thanks to the architecture of the space, there was a welcome breeze, and the atmosphere was just wonderful. The staff were incredibly attentive, making our evening even more enjoyable.
More wine followed. At the start of dinner, we’d asked the sommelier if we could have a little wine-pairing “fun”, trying different wines by the glass. It was time for some chilled reds! We enjoyed a Mavro from Cyprus, a Liatiko from Crete, and a Pinot Noir from Burgundy. All wines were paired beautifully with the Miso-Roasted Atlantic Black Cod, served with textures of beetroot, garlic seared broccolini and violet potato crisps, as well as the Seared Tuna, accompanied by a carrot, cucumber and spring sonion salad and citrus dressing.
Time passed slowly at Amyth Kouzina, as it should on an August night in the heart of the old city. But since it was nearly 11 pm, we asked to see the dessert menu.
Out came the dessert trolley, with the staff assembling sweet creations right before our eyes. A lovely experience, featuring inventive and visually appealing sweet dishes, was the perfect finale to the meal. It’s also well worth trying the house-made sorbets and ice creams.
Just before midnight, without Cinderella’s rush but with the laid-back air that only a summer’s night in the old town can offer, we stepped out of Amyth of Nicosia, promising ourselves we’d be back.
Amyth Kouzina:
Breakfast daily: 7 am–10 am
All-Day Dining (brunch & lunch): 10 am–3.30 pm
Afternoon Tea (pastries & sandwiches): 3.30 pm–7 pm
Dinner: 7 pm–10 pm
On Sunday and Monday evenings (7 pm–10.30 pm), bites and snacks from the Bar Menu are available.
Reservations: +357 22888400 or www.amythhotels.com/nicosia/eat-drink
